Hamburger America by George Motz

Author:George Motz
Language: eng
Format: mobi, epub
Publisher: Running Press
Published: 2011-03-22T05:00:00+00:00

HILDEBRANDT’S

84 HILLSIDE AVE | WILLISTON PARK, NY 11596

516-741-0608

WWW.HILDEBRANDTSRESTAURANT.COM

TUE–SAT 11 AM–8:30 PM | SUN 10 AM–4 PM

Densely packed suburban Long Island, New York, is a place where new malls and homes are constantly springing up and, unless protected, the past is unceremoniously swept away. In a part of the country where it’s getting harder to find genuine nostalgia, locals embrace Hildebrandt’s Luncheonette. This early-twentieth-century landmark soda counter, confectionery, and ice cream parlor offers a glimpse into the past. The counter, though, is not a washed-up has-been. It’s as vibrant as ever and happens to serve some of the tastiest burgers this side of Manhattan.

Hildebrandt’s opened in 1927 and was the only business in the newly developing dirt road suburb of Williston Park, 20 miles from New York City. Today, Hildebrandt’s is owned by Joanne Strano and her son-in-law, Bryan Acosta. Joanne and her late husband, Al, bought the vintage luncheonette in 1974 when longtime owner and chocolate maker Henry Shreiver was looking to retire. The Acostas learned the chocolate-making trade from Shreiver and made a major improvement to the existing burger on the menu—fresh ground beef.

This classic luncheonette, with its checkertiled floor and long marble counter with 13 stools, maintains a vintage look by making use of the soda fountain trappings of a bygone era. The seltzer and syrup dispensers are not vintage props. They all function daily, as does the long bank of ice cream chests behind the counter. Ice cream is a big draw at Hildebrandt’s because it’s made right at the restaurant.

But according to Bryan, most come for the food, which is a mix of classic diner fare and Italian specialties added by the Acosta family in the 1970s. Surprisingly, this amazing burger has been exiled to the bottom of the menu. Look for your cheeseburger in a section marked “sandwiches” at the bottom of the list, just after the meatball hero.

“We have the greatest burger,” Bryan told me without pause, and added, “I’ve never really had a better burger. I really haven’t.” He can boast all he wants. It really is a great burger. The burgers at Hildebrandt’s start as fresh-ground sirloin the restaurant receives from the butcher down the street. Bryan himself hand-patties the four-ounce burgers just before the lunch crowd shows up. The burgers are offered at the four-ounce size, or ask for the eight-ounce and get twice the meat. “We just take two four-ounce patties and smoosh them together on the grill,” Bryan explained. On the flattop griddle, Alfredo presses the burger flat and places a bacon weight on top. It’s served on a classic white bun with tomato, sliced onion, and a wedge of iceberg lettuce. Bacon is available, but not necessary (this meat is so good you won’t want anything to hide the flavor). Ketchup is king at Hildebrandt’s (there’s a bottle every few feet on the counter) but mustard has to be culled from the countermen in small pouches.

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